W
e all recognize the fate of most turkeys on Thanksgiving, but for a fortunate duo, a presidential pardon will spare them from becoming a holiday meal.
The quirky tradition of the presidential turkey pardon is believed by some historians to trace back to President Harry Truman. The chair of the National Turkey Federation, an organization that advocates for the turkey industry, has the special honor of overseeing the presidential birds. For current chair John Zimmerman, raising these turkeys is a privilege.
While the birds may not fully comprehend their situation, it is indeed an honor for them as well: “About 40 million turkeys are consumed on Thanksgiving,” states Zimmerman, a second-generation turkey farmer from Northfield, Minnesota. “Only two are pardoned.”
Representing over 2,500 turkey farms across the U.S., Zimmerman raises around 4 million pounds of turkeys each year. However, the turkeys destined for a presidential pardon enjoy particularly lavish lives. These birds, raised with an eclectic mix of polka music and AC/DC, will experience a luxurious overnight stay at the Willard InterContinental hotel, just a few blocks from the White House in Washington, D.C.
TIME had the opportunity to speak with Zimmerman by phone in mid-November about the care and special treatment these birds receive when chosen for the presidential pardon. The following conversation has been lightly edited for clarity and brevity.
TIME: When did the tradition of the presidential turkey pardon begin?
Zimmerman: The National Turkey Federation first presented a turkey to the President during the Truman Administration. Initially, the intention was for the bird to be eaten. However, some point to a previous tradition with Abraham Lincoln, who was given a turkey that his son Tad convinced him to spare, turning it into a pet. The first official presidential pardon of a turkey was granted by George H.W. Bush. Over time, pardoned turkeys have been sent to petting zoos and even paraded at Disney World.
When did you start raising this particular presidential flock?
These turkeys hatched in mid-July and will be about 18 weeks old by Thanksgiving week, fully grown males at that point.
Why do you raise this specific flock separately from the others?
These birds will participate in the pardoning ceremony on the South Lawn, where they will encounter crowds, children, and flashing cameras. We must ensure the turkeys are well-acclimated to such an environment. They aren’t pets by any means, but we interact with them daily, grooming their feathers and helping them adjust to human presence. We even play music and expose them to various lighting conditions, preparing them for any unexpected flashes from photographers—past incidents have shown that startled birds can become quite agitated.
Can you share more about how you select the turkeys for the presidential pardon?
We begin with a flock of 44 birds. The selection process really starts in the last few weeks, focusing on their temperament. We want birds that are calm and comfortable around people, so we test them by placing them on a table to see how long they remain still. Their plumage is also important—those with the most impressive feathers have an advantage. Ultimately, we select the top two based on their looks and behavior.
What special treatment do these turkeys receive?
Previous chairmen often share tips on raising these birds. Some say they prefer country or rock music, so we mix it up with classic rock and occasional polka to help them adapt to background noises. We even have a projector that creates light displays synchronized with the music to help them adjust to sudden movements and sounds.
Occasionally, people bring their pets to introduce the turkeys to other animals. It’s all part of ensuring they remain calm and composed on the big day. Interestingly, when we played patriotic music, particularly bugle calls like Taps and Reveille, the turkeys responded enthusiastically. We even attempted to train them to gobble along to “Hail to the Chief,” but progress has been slow.
That sounds thrilling! Did you try out any specific rock artists for them?
I enjoy AC/DC and Metallica, so they get a fair share of that music. However, nothing seems to capture their interest quite like the bugle or trumpet sounds.
Do you know what names are being considered for the two birds?
I don’t have the authority to name them. We held a naming contest at the Minnesota State Fair and collected suggestions at some agricultural leadership meetings. These names will be submitted to President Biden, who ultimately chooses the names. Last year’s pair were named Liberty and Bell, while previous names have included Pop and Corn, Caramel and Corn, and Peas and Carrots.
When will you know which turkeys are going to the White House?
The turkeys are transported in a minivan for the 16-hour drive to D.C. They’ll have a cozy space filled with shavings in the back of the minivan. A few days before the ceremony, someone will pick them up, and we’ll likely finalize our selection of the two turkeys less than 24 hours before the event.
What happens to the turkeys that aren’t selected for the presidential pardon?
Unfortunately, they will be processed and consumed like all other turkeys. As I often say, while 40 million turkeys are eaten on Thanksgiving, only two receive a pardon.
Where do the pardoned turkeys go after the ceremony?
Once they are pardoned, their lives are saved, and we need to find them a suitable home. This year, the pardoned turkeys will reside at Farmamerica in Waseca, Minnesota, which serves as an agricultural interpretive center. It offers visitors, especially school children, a chance to engage with agricultural history and learn about food production in Minnesota. The turkeys will live out their lives there, contributing to educational experiences for the public.